My Hotline Rings daily with troubleshooting questions for better color, methods and results.  Here are a few recent inquires: 

QMarilyn from Wasilla, Arkansas sometimes experiences a dark band around the hairline, especially with her darker formulas.

  • As stylists, we have a tendency to apply more color around the hairline after our color application is complete to ensure every single gray hair is covered. Color on top of color will result in a dark band.  If you feel it is necessary to reapply around the hairline when the color application is complete, please be sure to lift the hair with your rat tail comb to ensure the ammonia vapors can escape.
  • If the hair is extremely porous, a separate, lighter formula around the hairline may be necessary.
  • QJennifer from Pittsburgh, PA has a few customers complaining of scalp irritation while the color is processing.

  • There are times of the year when the scalp is drier and slight sensitivity may be experienced while processing any haircolor. This usually occurs during the winter months (drier scalps from the cold and furnace)  or during the summer months when we experience sunburns.  There are a few measures that can be taken to prevent this from occurring:
    1. when applying color, gently lay the color on the scalp without being rough with the brush
    2. after the color application is complete, lift the hair with a rat tail comb, (especially is the hair is long) to allow the ammonia vapors to escape
    3. when processing is complete, be sure to rinse the color from the hair extremely well before applying framesi Color Method Shampoo GO
    4. while processing framesi Color Method Post Color and Mask, gently massage the scalp with the Mask to replace moisture and soothe dry scalp
  • QEric from Murfreesboro, TN would like to know why his client always is extremely faded on the ends when she returns for color.

  • When you start to notice your clients experiencing more fadage on the ends, the color may need to be processed on the ends longer. Most stylists leave the product on the ends for a few minutes for fear it will become too dark.  If extreme fadage is occurring between appointments, the color should be pulled through the ends for at least 20 minutes, using a 15 volume developer.
  • When using a framesi color with the conditioning cream base, there is no need to worry about the color grabbing dark, but the hair will actually feel as if a conditioning treatment with color was applied. The longer processing will allow the dyes to fully develop into the hair and  be more resistant to fadage.
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    QMarianne from Rochester Hills, MI has a client that is allergic to PPD or the permanent haircolor dyes. Does framesi have anything that can be used that will cover her gray?

  • Absolutely! Framcolor Eclectic, framesi’s demi-permanent haircolor,  is PPD free, Ammonia free and Fragrance free.  The IN Series (Intense Natural) can achieve up to 100% gray coverage when mixed with Activator Extra. The Encapsulation Technology protects and illuminates the hair with amazing shine, allowing the color, shine and condition to last longer than any other demi-permanent color system.
  • QBarb from Sioux City, IA is desperate and wants to know why one of her clients, who is 100% gray, gets an orangey cast to her color no matter how much ash is used.  When she returns, the hair is even warmer and faded.

  • When the hair picks up an orangey cast and fades very warm, it usually is a sign of well water, minerals in water, or minerals from medicine build-up.  A simple demineralizing treatment prior to the color service will eliminate this build-up for a more successful color result.